Could you briefly introduce your company and yourself?
I am Oğuz Açıkgöz, General Manager of Ünlü Tekstil. I have been working at Ünlü Tekstil for 28 years, and I have been the general manager for 18 years.
Ünlü tekstil is a company that produces women’s outerwear products. We have coats, jackets, trousers, blouses and all kinds of women’s outerwear products. We manufacture and export them.
You are a company with approximately 1300 employees in two locations and there is no other textile company of this size in Istanbul, especially when we consider the costs. How do you achieve this?
Yes, it is a true detection. Costs are increasing in Istanbul, it is impossible not to agree with this. As you said, we have two locations. We have close to 1000 employees at our location in Sancaktepe and approximately 300 employees at our location in Arnavutköy. Together with these, we are 1300 people.You are right, the costs are increasing day by day in Istanbul.But we are trying to absorb our disadvantage arising from this cost increase, which is essential for us, by following the efficiency very closely.The biggest strength here is the efficiency we get from our employees. I would like to specifically point this out.
So who are your customers? Could you also give information about your supplier position in your customer?
Our customers are what we call H&M’s brands; We have clients like ‘COS’, ‘Other stories’, ‘Arket’, ‘Lacoste’ ‘Tommy Hilfiger’, ‘Hallhuber’ Ivy&oak,from England compagnies like Boden, Reiss, The White Company. We can say that all of Europe’s famous customers are famous brands.
What are your views on production management? How do you perform production management?
As I just mentioned, in-house production is too much high. We produce in our own structure. We have 15 lines in Sancaktepe and 4 lines in Arnavutköy, 19 lines in total.In both locations, we perform a completely data-based production management. We collect data. Data mining is very important in our systems.By collecting and analyzing this data,we follow the production by identifying both bottlenecks and lost times.The main basis of our production system is the productivity tracking system.
One of your most important skills as a factory is that you produce different products on the same lines. So you make pants, jackets, skirts.This is a difficult situation for a textile industry to do. How do you do this?
That’s an important detection. In fact, we have made a very important investment in this. We converted it to this system 20 years ago. Just like you said, it is difficult to make all kinds of products in our industry.It generally concentrates on one type of product. However, we can make all kinds of women’s outerwear products in all our lines.The main objectif here is our system.Here we follow the bundle system. We divide things into lines and this bundle system allows us to manage and move the system properly.Of course, a change of mentality is also very important here.What we specifically tell our friends working in the lines is that they are no longer a tailor, they are an operator, and they do it regardless of the model of the operation that comes before them. We realized this mentality change.Our friends also adapted very quickly to this and they try to perform their jobs in the best way by looking only at the operation they have done.
You are using @rgeMAS as production management system. How many years have you been using this system? What kind of system is it. What data does it provide you.
Yes, we were collecting data manually in the system before using @rgeMAS. At the same time, we could not get it online.We were able to get it a day or a day and half late. Of course, this was a serious waste of time for us. It prevented us from seeing the problems simultaneously.We switched to the @rgeMAS system 10 years ago and we collect data in many units and in many areas with the @rgeMAS system.First of all, we have been collecting our data instantly from the @rgeMAS system for 10 years now, including the tracking of deadlines, including planning at almost many points such as quality, efficiency, lost times, traceability, machine maintenance.
You get many reports with the @rgeMAS system. You receive reports such as productivity, quality, lost time. How do you use these reports?
In fact, these reports are the crown of our meetings. We hold production-related meetings every morning. We look at how many pieces are produced in production.We look at the efficiency of our lines. We look at the quality of the products produced in the lines.We look at the in-line quality reports, we look at the end-of-line quality reports, we look at the quality reports of the works that come out of quality control, and we can do all of these thanks to the reports we receive from @rgeMAS.The reports you obtained from these data, which we mainly look at in our meetings, and the evaluation of these results.
How does it help you to have reports and data about employees in terms of management?
In fact, our employees may oppose a bit when such a system change occurs, which is a situation that usually occurs in almost all sectors.This has happened to us too. But then they actually clung to the system more than we did.Because the most important thing is that you can objectively evaluate employees both in terms of efficiency and quality. This is really important.At the same time, we have included the bonus system into the system and the employees are now they give value to it more than the managers.Another important point is: you can do this with all objective values, without depending on any person for the evaluation of your employees.In other words, from the system, you can get the results of the quality efficiency of any employee, both for the present and the past, as well as for the past months and years.It’s both about quality and about efficiency. It gives you the opportunity to make a very healthy evaluation of the employees.At the same time, I think and believe that fair remuneration is very important, especially in production.Fair remuneration is one of the most important issues for employees. Therefore, when you receive objective data from the system, you can remunerate our employees according to their quality data and productivity in a very impartial way, in a very objective way.This can provide an environment of peace and tranquility in production.
You just said that you are using bundle system in production, unlike classical methods. Can you talk a little bit about this system? Can you tell me its advantages?
The bundle system is a system that should be in my eyes. We’ve been using this system for 20 years, and I usually describe the old system without bundles as a closed-loop system .Because what i mean from closed-loop ; at least let’s tell according to the compagny manager own point of view.When there is no Bundle system, you do not have a chance to follow the developments in production.Because you can know the entrance and exit of a line. But you don’t have a chance to know what it is in that period.
At most, you can believe in a subjective information that will come from that line, but thanks to the bundle system, we extract all the operations of each model.And we assign a time to that operation and thanks to this time, we start to get the data as soon as any bundle, we mean 20’s ,for any reason ends.
Therefore, as of that moment, we can follow the efficiency and quality of that model. We can see the trend instantly, we can interfere.What does this give us? Does this lead us to a bottleneck with that model? Will there be a delay or will we have a lost time? It allows us to see them and prevent them.
What does this give us?
Therefore, as of that moment, we can follow the efficiency and quality of that model. We can see the trend instantly, we can interfere. Does this lead us to a bottleneck with that model? Will there be a delay or will we have a lost time? It allows us to see them and prevent them.
For example, we did this very clearly this morning. The status of one model was controversial.I immediately asked my friends to see if this would catch up, I said this.In a very simple way, please, how many operations does this model have so far from the system, times the number of operations, for example, if there are 100 thousand operations, we immediately returned from the system.How many operations have been performed so far? We see how many percent of this has been completed, and on Monday, for example, we can determine whether it will catch up with the loading or not. It can provide us with this very precise data.
There is a frequently asked question about the bundle system. It seems like a serious waste of time for the employee to get up and take the bundle. What would you like to say about it when you compare it with all the benefits you have mentioned.
The main thing here is that bundles are already in the line. If you set up the line correctly, that line will have a very nice flow.And this basket in question will not be far away, it will be right next to it.But when you compare the lost time here with the efficiency achieved, I think it is very worthless.
After we switched to the bundle system and followed the system with data, we saw that your lost times are much far beyond the pick-up and drop-off time of this basket, in fact, we have lost times that cannot even be approached.When it is seen, it will be revealed that it is very valueless, means that the time of buying and giving the basket is very valueless.
It’s actually an organizational job
Yes, the organization will be right next to it if we want to prevent it in the line, if we have set up the line properly, and the relevant basket will take it immediately. But as I said, the lost time here is considered very small compared to the other lost times you will detect, it is considered very small, it is considered meaningless in my opinion.
What is your quality control and quality assurance system? What do your customers think about your quality control and quality assurance system?
I think that the essential thing in the quality system and quality assurance system is the system. Normally, in my experience, I have talked to many custmers.Ünlü Tekstil has had many customers over the years, and the first thing that European customers see, especially international customers, is how your quality system is.So it’s how you manage quality. They’re actually looking at him. When we tell the data about the system, yes, they believe in this system.So this is what I’m trying to say. Having a quality system is the most important factor for them.They see that when there is a system, a quality can come out of it, if there is a problem, it can be solved as soon as possible, and what they want to see more is to have a system.We provide us with the quality assurance system and the entire quality assurance system, again with data through the @rgeMAS system.We also perform in-line control by collecting data.We also perform end-of-line control by collecting data.We also do quality control by collecting data. We do it again by collecting data in the final controls.Our system processes them, and we evaluate them with the reports that come out from our system.Again, we are moving forward by making the necessary intervention regarding the problems that arise.When we tell this to our customers, they actually like it when they see it.t is not important here that the error occurs. The important thing here is whether you can collect data after the error occurs or about the error. Can you take precautions about them? Can you turn them into reports? Can you follow up on these mistakes and take the necessary precautions so that they don’t happen again? That’s what matters here. We can only do this thanks to the system. We can do this with the data we collect in in-line, end-of-line and final quality control.
Among the latest modules developed by @rgeMAS is ‘line balancing optimization’. Thinking about the future of production, what do you think about it?
I think this is extremely important and I think it is an important part and even complement of this system. Why? Because we collect data about efficiency in every sense. We also collect data on quality. Then only one thing remains. We can set up the line according to this efficiency and data.
Is not it? We can also install the line very clearly. Why don’t we install the line? Can’t we create the line where we can get the best efficiency and the best quality about a model with this data? We can create. Because we have the data in our hands.Thus, this makes the job of planning much easier. Thanks to this optimization, as soon as we enter the criteria of a model into the system, the system will best give us in which line and with whom this model can be made. I can truly say that it is a revolution in terms of production methods management. I can say it’s a big change.
After you collect the data, you collect productivity and quality data about each employee and give a bonus to the employees. How do you evaluate the effect of the bonus on employees based on your observations?
I can say that this has made a really important contribution to us. We reward our employees when they exceed a certain working production time. I can say that it makes a serious difference. I can say that it has a positive effect. I can easily say that it contributed to the yield.
Obviously, another positive contribution was this. It caused all of our employees to cling to the system with four hands. For example, we did something like this with the bonus system. Because in this system, especially in the bundle system, it is very important that the line is set up in a balanced way, means enough products will be delivered to everyone on time.Therefore, if this is not established here, if this is not provided, this time may adversely affect your efficiency. In order to prevent this, we gave each employee a barcode related to waiting times related to lost times, again as a module of the system.For example, when any of our employees are waiting for a job, or when they are waiting for material or information about the mold, they can immediately read that barcode and give us information, since there is a bonus system in the job. And so what are we doing? If there is a problem here, we start to clear the way for that line and do what needs to be done about them. Thus, we avoid a lost time and a bottleneck there.
How do you ensure product traceability?
This was really a very important problem in our industry. We really hadn’t figured it out until then. Because you can track the products in terms of quantity, productivity and quality while they are in pieces. However, after the product became a single piece, it was a little difficult to follow it.We tried RFID systems, but we could not succeed, then a solution came to our mind. We did this together with @rgeMAS. You know, especially after checking the quality of a product in the quality finish section, or after it is ironed, colored labels are attached.Based on that, we removed these labels and switched to the QR code barcode application instead. We sew the QR code to the product together with the washing instruction on the line, and after the product has become one piece, we can follow up the product when we read this QR code barcode with the optical readers of the @rgeMAS system, especially in the finish section, we mean in the quality control, final ironing and packaging section. This QR code barcode also enables us to follow the productivity of our colleagues in the finish section, I mean in quality control, in ironing and packaging, and also in the quantity.Most importantly, we can perform quality-related data, especially in the finish section, thanks to our traceability barcode, I mean our data matrix barcode.
Do you do kaizen studies on productivity and quality improvement and how do you do it?
Kaizen here means continuous development and improvement. In fact, when we start from here, how will you detect a development and progress? Here is the question. I think the best way to do this is to make things analytical.For example, it is not possible for me to do any kaizen work without knowing your yield, previous months’ yield, past years’ yield, or your related line yield.Only when mathematical data are presented to you you can provide it. When you can collect data, you can provide it.In our factory if there is no productivity or quality that you want in a line, we are trying to improve and develop it by doing some studies.Again, I say, the basis of this is the data we collect.
I want to ask you a question in terms of social compliance? For example, can an employee who wants to talk to you reach you easily?
Actually its like this. We have nearly eight communication channels with our employees. We give great importance to this. As you mentioned at the beginning of the dialogue, we have close to 1300 employees. And we have to deal with problems quickly. That’s why we attach great importance to communication and dialogue. We have nearly eight communication channels.They can reach by email. Again, we have a relevant table in our cafeteria, in our restaurant, where our friends attend. But most importantly, we even have a barcode system for which we received a ‘best practices’ award from one of our customers. This is also a module by @rgeMAS. Here’s how we do the implementation.We put a communication barcode in front of all friends, all machinist friends, all friends in production. The system sends us an email as soon as this communication barcode is read by the barcode scanning devices we use for any productivity tracking.This e-mail comes to me as a company manager, it comes to human resources and can go to anyone you want. Therefore, we immediately call that friend. Do you have a problem? Because he has a message he wants to convey to us? We call him and thus we record all requests in this sense. Obviously, we have such an application and I must say that it gives us a great advantage.
Could you share your experiences about Industry 4.0 and lean production?
I think both are extremely data driven. To get rid of movements that do not produce added value in the essence of lean production and to avoid waste.But how will that happen without collecting data? How will you achieve this without knowing the quality efficiency and production efficiency. Therefore, I say again, we can only realize lean production with the data we have obtained from these reports.Because there must be a system that will show us the points of inefficiency so that we can get rid of them.Is not it? So let’s get rid of the non-productive parts. That’s why I think data mining data collection is very important.In fact, data mining is at the core of industry 4.0. I think businesses should be managed by collecting this data.
Apart from Ünlü Tekstil, you are also the manager of Sigma Elektrik. Could you give brief information about this sector?
Yes, another company of our group is Sigma Elektrik, which produces low voltage products outside the very different textile sector. Such as fuses, switches, current transformer contactors that we use in our house. In fact, products far beyond textiles. Here, again, one of the two companies producing in Turkey is Sigma Elektirik.We also use @rgeMAS in the production unit there. For both to follow the quality and to follow the efficiency. At the same time, products are subjected to a lot of tests there. Again, we follow the test results comparatively via @rgeMAS and we store these results. In such products, it is very important to store the test results and follow them over the years.Again, we can easily do the whole operation there. But again, of course, there is the essence of the matter. When you look at it, textile and low voltage products are two very different sectors. If you ask how, the essence of the matter is this; if you are doing this with an operation to make a product and you can assign a time to each of these operations, which is possible in both sectors.It is possible in other sectors as well. The rest is just to be included in the system and read the relevant barcodes. The system is already able to collect data and provide you with relevant reports.
It will be a little different, but there are some applications in the confection industry, such as collecting data from machines. What do you think about collecting data directly from the machine?
Now, in our industry, we should not ignore the preparatory operations while producing a model. A very important part of the preparation operations is hand operations, so we cannot do all of them with the machine from here. Yes, we do certain operations with the machine, but the garment industry is a sector where handwork is very intense.Moreover, almost all of the preparatory operations are related to manual labor. When you collect it from the machine, you do not collect all the data. However, the system needs to collect data in every field, it needs to collect data completely.We think that collecting data from the machine will lead to incomplete information and incomplete analysis. Because there are so many operations. In this system, we give time to all manual operations, create barcodes and monitor their efficiency.
Do you think there is a gap in the @rgeMAS system in terms of data collection?
We have been using it for 10 years. Frankly, we have not had a problem both as a device and as a software so far. Our system has been running smoothly for almost 10 years now. I get my reports every morning very easily.When I think about it, we have always wanted updates, new modules, additions. I can say very clearly to these every time that we got an answer. It met the need, if there was anything needed, it also met it.Being able to be developed in this sense is also a big plus for me. It has been realized when I have already stated that there is no deficiency until now. I can easily say that.
As production management at Ünlü Tekstil you use @rgeMAS . When you passed to @rgeMAS, what would have changed for both your employees and you. Could you comfortably carry out your management?
Obviously, we get so used to the system that it’s really hard to even imagine, but the first thing I’m going to say is as if we’re going back to fish out of water. Because we have been following with data for years. We follow with data. All of our friends are used to it.Our executive colleagues also got used to it. Our employees in the line got used to it, too. Everyone is looking at the device in front of them and the screen in front of them to follow their efficiency. The line chief does, too. In fact, when I visit the intermediate lines, sometimes our screens,I mean the television screens that we reflect the data, sometimes break down.Believe me, the first thing they said to me was ‘Mister Oğuz, can you please fix this screen quickly’, in case it took a little longer. Why because he wants to look every moment. In other words, they want to see who does what, how many, how many operations they have done. We are so used to it that we take our system this way. The other form is something like blindness in a sense for us.
Is it possible to manage your company without data in this period where competition and customer demands are increasing day by day? Is this situation sustainable?
Therefore, I can honestly say that it is very difficult or even impossible to run a business without data. We run our business with data. When a customer turns to me and asks about the deadlines, when he asks about the loading dates, I can only tell the number of operations for that model by looking at the system.I don’t have to count every time how many percent of that work is finished in quality control and what percent of that work is done in ironing. Thanks to the system, I can see how many were passed in the packaging again. I can see it instantly.This can even come to us graphically. I think this is a huge advantage. It may even cause us to make many decisions. For example, will there be work tonight or not?Thanks to the system, we can see how many of those models are finished in production, which will return and load those models the next day. Again, we follow the productivity and quality efficiency of people from there.When an evaluation is made about quality, we get rid of dirty information. I think this is extremely important for businesses. If there is no data, if you do not have a system, dirty information can disturb businesses very much.However, when you put this into data, if you can easily say that a model has gone through your quality control by one percent or 0.5 percent.I think this is very important and prevents this dirty information. Therefore, I can say that it is extremely difficult to manage businesses without data, at least for myself.
Can you explain the dirty information a bit more?
Dirty information is sometimes not based on data, this can be a lot in businesses, it can be subjective data. What am I trying to say. Sometimes it can be said that there is an error in this product. For example, by looking at a couple of products.We then do this. Is this really a common thing or something in a couple of models? We immediately enter the system and see how many errors were found in the in-line regarding this model, how many errors were found in the end-of-line control, and how many errors were found in the quality control.If the data on quality is below our target at these stages, then we say that we have made this product in line with our target of very good quality. These two visible things are exceptional.For these exceptional cases, we say that there is no need to judge a point in any way and deform any point. This is what I meant. So I’m talking about information that is not suitable for data and analytics.
Would you recommend @rgeMAS?
No doubt. As a matter of fact, I always said this when I first started talking to @rgeMAS. That’s what it should have been. That’s what it always should have been.It’s finally here. You know when you wait for something, you wish it would happen and you wait for it to come, and I said it finally came. And frankly, I think it’s also a chance for our industry. That’s why I honestly think that it should be used completely, aside from recommending it.
And finally, is there anything you would like to add?
In this sense, modules of @rgeMAS are constantly changing and being added. Finally, we realized a study on fair remuneration.As I mentioned in my speech on fair remunerations, it is really important for businesses. These data are no longer subjective data, I mean they are not personal data.Thus, when you want to make a periodic evaluation according to the data you collect from the system, we can get quality data and performance data from the system, especially about remunerations.We can take it from the system and see the actual qualification of that person. You can see how qualified you are and we can make the pricing accordingly. In fact, it’s not just productivity tracking.We can also develop solutions for such main issues. This is really important. It gives us very important points about deadlines. What is the subject I said, as I said at the beginning, how much of a product is completed, for example, free from efficiency.In any section, you can see how much of it has been completed as sewing, buttonholes, quality control, ironing. And you can take action before it’s too late.For example, you have a loading tomorrow and if you have any doubts, that the system can send you automatically, we will install it hourly via the mail system. For example, you can see what percentage of this has been completed as of that moment, and if we need to take any action, you can take it.In this sense, we use it not only as a productivity or quality follow-up, but also as a communication tool, with many side elements, as I said before, and we can even use it for a process follow-up. I have to say that there are too many such side elements and side additives.